Gaston Rébuffat
Gaston Rébuffat, born May 7, 1921, in Marseille and died May 31, 1985, in Bobigny, was a French mountaineer, notably a member of the 1950 French expedition to Annapurna, a high-mountain guide, writer, and filmmaker.
Gaston Rébuffat discovered climbing in the Calanques of Marseille. At sixteen, he joined the French Alpine Club (Haute-Provence section), where he discovered high-altitude mountaineering and met Henri Moulin, whom he considered his "big brother in mountaineering." He then explored the Alps and the Mont Blanc massif, which became his playground. In 1940, he joined Jeunesse et Montagne (Youth and Mountain), where he met Lionel Terray, who became his friend. It was at the "School, Youth, and Mountain" center in Valgaudemar that his passion for the mountains took deep root. He then moved to Chamonix, where he worked on his friend Lionel Terray's farm while waiting to be co-opted into the Chamonix Guides Company.
In 1942, Gaston Rébuffat earned his high-mountain guide certification despite his young age (21, while the required age was 23). He continued working as an instructor with the youth organization "Jeunesse et Montagne" (Youth and Mountain), and in 1944 became an instructor at the National School of Mountaineering (École Nationale d'Alpinisme) and the Military High Mountain School (École Militaire de Haute Montagne). In June 1945, he joined the prestigious Chamonix Guides Company under the tutelage of Alfred Couttet. He thus became the third "outsider" in the Company, after Roger Frison-Roche and Édouard Frendo, whereas traditionally, one had to be born in the valley to be admitted. A modest skier, he worked as a guide in the summer, but instead of being a ski instructor in the winter, he tried his hand at writing.
He participated in the first ascent of Annapurna in 1950 with, among others, Jean Couzy, Lionel Terray, Maurice Herzog, Louis Lachenal, Marcel Ichac, Marcel Schatz, Jacques Oudot, and Francis de Noyelle. This feat would remain a difficult chapter in his life. He did not reach the summit, but, along with Terray, he rescued Lachenal and Herzog, who were in distress. Like Lachenal, and unlike Herzog, he felt no patriotic or mystical mission in climbing this peak. Since the Himalayan Committee had contractually forbidden members of the expedition from writing accounts of their experience, only Maurice Herzog's "Annapurna Premier 8000" was authorized and declared the official account.
In 1958, he directed the film dedicated to the mountains for Walt Disney Pictures' "Third Man on the Mountain" (1959), filmed in Zermatt, Switzerland, at the foot of the Matterhorn. Primarily a resident of Chamonix, he was also a frequent visitor to Sainte-Maxime, the hometown of his wife, daughter of the architect René Darde. Author of numerous books on the mountains, some with an educational purpose, he worked to popularize mountaineering techniques and knowledge of the mountain environment among young people. Also a lecturer, Gaston Rébuffat introduced the world of high altitudes to regions throughout France through screenings as part of the "Connaissance du Monde" (Knowledge of the World) lecture series.
In 1984, he was made an Officer of the Legion of Honour, a year before his death from cancer on May 31, 1985. He is buried in the Chamonix-Mont-Blanc cemetery.
| Known For | Acting |
|---|---|
| Most Rating | 0.5812 |
| Birthday | 1921-05-07 |
| Place of Birth | Marseille, Bouches-du-Rhône, France |
| Also Known As | جاستون ريبوفات, Гастон Рибуфа, ガストン・ルビュファ, |
1974
Les Horizons Gagnés
10/1
The guide Gaston Rébuffat, shares with us his view of his job and the nature that surrounds him by showing us some beautiful climbs made with friends,...
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Les Horizons Gagnés
1961
Entre Terre et Ciel
10/1
This is Gaston Rebuffat's fourth film, in which, with several close friends, he discovers the sublime landscapes of the Alps. “Mont-Blanc is beautiful...
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Entre Terre et Ciel
2000
When the Mountaineers Make Their Cinema
10/1
Many mountaineers as part of their activity have used cameras and films to allow us to participate through images in their adventures and their emotio...
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When the Mountaineers Make Their Cinema
1953
Des Hommes Et Des Montagnes
10/1
History, advice and demonstrations of mountaineering in the Mont Blanc massif by the renowned guides of the National School of Ski and Mountaineering...
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Des Hommes Et Des Montagnes
1955
Stars and Storms
10/1
Gaston Rébuffat is part of the history of mountaineering. Marseillais prodigy, high mountain guide of the Chamonix guide company and famous for the as...
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Stars and Storms
1947
Flammes De Pierres
10/1
"Flammes de Pierre" is the first documentary made by Gaston Rébuffat himself in 1947. It depicts Rébuffat in full ascent of the Flammes De Pierre, wil...
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Flammes De Pierres
1988
Baquet's Comeback
10/1
July 1956: like every summer, the actor and cellist Maurice Baquet temporarily deserts the stage and the cinema studios to go to Chamonix where the mo...
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Baquet's Comeback
2009
The World of Gaston Rébuffat
10/1
The World of Gaston Rébuffat is a documentary on mountaineering which takes place at Gendarme Du Pic Du Roc and Grande Candelle. Directed by Gilles Ch...
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The World of Gaston Rébuffat
2015
Chamonix - Mont Blanc, Une histoire de conquêtes
10/1
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Chamonix - Mont Blanc, Une histoire de conquêtes
1959
Perilous Assignment
10/1
"Perilous Assignment" is an episode of ABC's Walt Disney Presents. Disney loved to show viewers behind the scenes of the daring shoots of its theatric...
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Perilous Assignment
1953
Victory over Annapurna
10/1
In 1950, a French expedition led by Maurice Herzog went to central Nepal to conquer the highest peak (8,091 meters): Annapurna. The film is not only m...
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Victory over Annapurna
1960
Victories on the Himalayas
10/1
Retrospective of four major peaks climbed by French expeditions: Annapurna (8078m) in 1950; Makalu (8481m) in 1955; Mustagh Tower (7273m) in 1956 and...
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Victories on the Himalayas
2021
Roped, 200 Years In The Eyes Of Chamonix Guides
9/2
The history of the Chamonix Guides Company is inseparable from that of mountaineering and the valley where it was born. For 200 years, guides have ris...
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Roped, 200 Years In The Eyes Of Chamonix Guides
2023
Maurice Baquet, The Accorded
10/1
At once a high-level musician, member of the October Group, entertainer, theater artist, film actor, mountaineer, and skier, Maurice Baquet, always on...
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Maurice Baquet, The Accorded
2008
Faszination Bergfilm - Himmelhoch und Abgrundtief
10/1
A fascinating chronology of 100 years of mountain film history in the Alps. This documentary focuses primarily on films shot on the Matterhorn, the Ei...
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Faszination Bergfilm - Himmelhoch und Abgrundtief
2025
The Future of Climbing
10/1
With the proliferation of private climbing gyms and the sport's inclusion in the Olympic Games, climbing, long a counter-cultural movement, is undergo...
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